History of mountaineering
PodcastHistory of mountaineering : from clogs to crampons
Before ropes and ice axes, it was the shepherds who led the way, crossing passes and valleys in hooves, not to mention exploits. Then in the eighteenth century, scientists took over: geologists, glaciologists, botanists… They do not aim for the summits, but observe, note, map.
The spirit of exploration is launched.
The real trigger? 1864. Edward Whymper, a British mountaineer, climbed the Barre des Écrins (4,102 m) with local guides. He published his story in London: the Écrins became a “little Himalayas” for European climbers. William Coolidge followed, who traced mythical great routes: the Pelvoux, the Grande Ruine, the Coolidge corridor…
Between 1870 and 1914, it was the golden age. Mountaineering becomes a matter of performance and prestige. The French Alpine Club developed the first refuges: Glacier Blanc, Temple Écrins, Cézanne… And in 1877, the Meije finally fell. Then, it’s time for the amateurs: do you dream of a 3000? It’s within reach of cleats (and well-trained legs).
1980s: a new lease of life in Ailefroide, where Jean-Michel Cambon opened large-scale pleasure climbing routes, accessible but demanding. Today, the Écrins combines classic mountaineering, sport climbing, steep slope skiing, and high-altitude trails. The spirit remains the same: adventure, humility and respect for the mountains.
Where to relive the history of mountaineering in the Écrins?
- Ailefroide and Pré de Madame Carle – Immersive tour with stories, videos and augmented reality ( LegendR app)
- Library of L’Argentière-la-Bessée – Original notebooks by Whymper, old stories, period topos
- Augmented reality headsets available at the Tourist Office – free app to download
- Immerse yourself in the world of the high mountains in the heart of the Écrins massif in the Hautes-Alpes. Different themes are addressed such as cartography, the experience of a high mountain guide, the 1st ascent of the Barre des Écrins…
Several speakers host this podcast: Claude Albrand, Philippe Bourdeau, Michel Tailland, Jacques Mille, Jean-Marc Barfety.
Find this episode without further delay.
The Écrins are not to be told, they are lived. Is it your turn to take over?