Murals of the Pays des Écrins
Discovering the hidden treasures of the churches and chapels of the Pays des Écrins
Here, the churches and chapels not only tell the story of the faith, they draw the history of an entire valley on the walls. In the Pays des Écrins, murals abound, real medieval comics intended to make an impression. Built for the most part at the end of the fifteenth century, they were part of a religious reconquest in the face of the Waldensian heresy. The Archbishop of Embrun, Jean Baille, then revived the construction of places of worship in valleys deserted by priests.
But be careful: these are not frescoes. The fresco technique, which is more expensive, is rarely used. Here, we paint on a dry wall, with pigments that are often simple – ochre, red – less expensive, but just as telling.
These works were used for catechization. And often, it is the Virgin Mary who is found in the center. In the Hautes-Alpes, she is omnipresent, protective and merciful, sometimes even in the place of Christ in the scenes of the Last Judgment. A rare fact, as on the tympanum of Embrun Cathedral.
The church of Les Vigneaux: a striking masterpiece
If you have to see just one, go to Les Vigneaux. On the outside wall of the church of Saint-Laurent, a striking scene: the seven deadly sins – pride, lust, gluttony… – are swallowed by a dragon and plunged into hell. A precious little touch: a rare and expensive green pigment highlights the boot of Lust, a seductive female figure with make-up. Thrills guaranteed.
Where to see them?
Vallouise-Pelvoux, L’Argentière-la-Bessée, Puy Saint-Vincent, Prelles, Bouchier, La Roche-de-Rame… Each church or chapel in the territory has its share of painted treasures.
To explore at your own pace, download the Legendr app (with augmented reality and games) or Patrimoine Hautes-Alpes. And for the curious and eager for stories, follow the guided tours of Elsa Giraud from the Atelier d’Histoire.