Discovering Mont Pelvoux

Home My desire to My desire for the mountains Discovering Mont Pelvoux

We are in Vallouise for four months, so it was unthinkable to leave without having rubbed shoulders with the most mythical peaks of the valley, on skis or on foot. The Écrins massif is full of superb races, desirable peaks and beautiful sharp ridges. After Roche Faurio, the Dôme des Écrins and the crossing of the Dômes de Monêtier for the day, we then set off to attack Mont Pelvoux, culminating at 3943 m above sea level.

What could be better than sharing this summit with two friends, Fred and Julie, who came especially to discover the area. After a day of warm-up – crossing the Dômes de Monêtier for the day, from the Pré de Madame Carle to the Eychauda valley – we took the road towards Ailefroide.

Head for the Pelvoux refuge 

For this first day, we have to reach the Pelvoux refuge located on a rocky promontory at an altitude of 2704 m. From here we have a breathtaking view of the Sélé valley and the Agulier ridge. When we arrived at the refuge, we saw in the distance its neighbour, the Sélé refuge, which allowed access to other mythical peaks in the area, such as the Pointe du Sélé or the Ailefroide Orientale.

After the 1200 m of elevation gain and the 8 km to be covered to reach the refuge, we are “delighted” to spend the evening at 7 degrees, with all the possible thicknesses that we have managed to carry. Yes, it is not yet guarded, we will have to wait until the beginning of June to enjoy the warm welcome of the guards. A little snow in the kitchen for noodles and tea, that’s something to warm us up. Fortunately, good jokes keep you warm. 8:00 p.m., obligation to go to bed, tomorrow morning’s wake-up call scheduled for 2:45 a.m., I should say tonight, is not going to be easy.

… crampons on our feet, headlamps on, everyone roped up to their partner, we are on our way to the summit. The stars and the moon light up the sky and the reliefs, even at night, can be distinguished. We are moving at a good pace, even with this snow still very present in the middle of May: thanks to the refrost of the night for cooperating! Once we have set foot on the Bosse de Sialouze, we go up the glacier of the same name to the entrance of the famous Coolidge couloir. At this time, I find that going up this couloir is a great way to get to the top. In summer, when it is too much in ice and for more safety, most of the rope teams take the Red Rocks route.

Anyway, although the climb up the couloir requires special attention and a good crampon, I couldn’t help but admire the sunrise that was unfolding at my back. That morning, the pink and orange hues revealed the grandeur and verticality of these rock faces, still largely covered with snow, while accentuating by contrast, the lightness and finesse of the mist and clouds.

Mont Pelvoux in the early morning

Making the track in the corridor is a pleasure, I don’t feel any fatigue. At the end of it, a new panorama appears from Pointe Puiseux. A few more meters to the rocky peak and that’s it, we’re there! Above the clouds, we enjoy the sun of this early morning and the view of the Glacier des Violettes, the Glacier Noir, the Pic Cooldige, the Barre des Écrins and all the peaks in the area. The four of us are gathered at the top, we enjoy the moment, suspended in time.

… by the same route as the ascent for safety reasons: going through the Glacier des Violettes was risky, because the belays located on it to carry out the rappels, could potentially be covered with snow at this time of year.

How long this descent is compared to the climb in the night… 2h30 later, we are back at the refuge, where we take a short lunch break. All we have to do is reach the car park located in Ailefroide. During these two days, we only met chamois, happy to find the mildness of spring, and their comrades the marmots, guardians of the mountain.

I think that’s why I like to be in the mountains, for the solitude and the surpassing of myself! In any case, it is very tired, but happy with these two beautiful days spent together, that we end the weekend.

Margaux Claude, GEOTREK Intern